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Exeter

Coordinates:50°43′32″N03°31′37″W / 50.72556°N 3.52694°W /50.72556; -3.52694
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Exeter
Clockwise from top: Exeter Cathedral; Southernhay; Sidwell Street in the city centre; Exeter Quay; Royal Albert Memorial Museum; The Iron Bridge
Coat of arms of Exeter
Official logo of Exeter
Motto:
Semper fidelis (Always Faithful)
The District of Exeter including Topsham shown within Devon
The District of Exeter including Topshamshown within Devon
Exeter is located in the United Kingdom
Exeter
Exeter
Location within the United Kingdom
Exeter is located in England
Exeter
Exeter
Location within England
Exeter is located in Devon
Exeter
Exeter
Location in Devon
Coordinates:50°43′32″N03°31′37″W / 50.72556°N 3.52694°W /50.72556; -3.52694
Sovereign state United Kingdom
Country England
Region South West England
Ceremonialandshirecounty Devon
City status Time immemorial
Non-metropolitan district 1974
Government
• Type City council
• Body Exeter City Council
MP Steve Race
(Labour) &David Reed
(Conservative)
Area
[1]
• Total 18 sq mi (47 km2)
• Rank 246th(of 296)
Population
(2022) [2]
• Total 134,939
• Rank 175th(of 296)
• Density 7,400/sq mi (2,900/km2)
Demonyms
Exonian
• Ethnicity(2011)[3]
Time zone UTC0(GMT)
• Summer (DST) UTC+1(BST)
Postcode district
Area code 01392
Website exeter.gov.uk

Exeter(/ˈɛksɪtər/EK-sit-ər) is acathedral cityand thecounty townofDevon,South West England. It is situated on theRiver Exe, approximately 36 mi (58 km) northeast ofPlymouthand 65 mi (105 km) southwest ofBristol.

InRoman Britain, Exeter was established as the base ofLegio II Augustaunder the personal command ofVespasian. Exeter became a religious centre in theMiddle Ages.Exeter Cathedral, founded in the mid 11th century, becameAnglicanin the 16th-centuryEnglish Reformation. Exeter became an affluent centre for thewool trade, although by theFirst World Warthe city was in decline. After theSecond World War, much of the city centre was rebuilt and is now a centre for education, business and tourism in Devon and Cornwall. It is home to two of the constituent campuses of theUniversity of Exeter:StreathamandSt Luke's.

The administrative area of Exeter has the status of anon-metropolitan districtunder the administration of the County Council. It is the county town of Devon and home to the headquarters ofDevon County Council. A plan to grant the cityunitary authoritystatus was scrapped by the2010 coalition government.[citation needed]

Name

[edit]

The modern name of Exeter is a development of theOld EnglishEscanceaster,[4]from theanglicisedform of the river now known as theExeand the Old Englishsuffix-ceaster(as inDorchesterandGloucester), used to mark important fortresses or fortified towns (from latin Castra, meaning fortress). (Similarly, the city'sCornishnameKareskand itsWelshnameCaerwysgboth mean "caeror fortresson the Exe".) The name "Exe" is a separate development of theBrittonicname—meaning "water"[4]or, more exactly, "full of fish" (cf. Welshpysg,pl."fish")[5]—that also appears in theEnglishAxeandEskand the WelshUsk(Wysg).

History

[edit]

Prehistory

[edit]

Exeter began as settlements on a dry ridge ending in a spur overlooking a navigableriverteeming with fish, with fertile land nearby. Although there have been no majorprehistoricfinds, these advantages suggest the site was occupied early.[6]

Coinshave been discovered from theHellenistic kingdoms, suggesting the existence of a settlement trading with the Mediterranean as early as250 BC.[7]Such early towns had been a feature of pre-RomanGaulas described byJulius Caesarin hisCommentariesand it is possible that they existed inBritanniaas well.

The unreliable sourceGeoffrey of Monmouthstated that whenVespasianbesieged the city in 49 AD its Celtic name wasKaerpenhuelgoit, meaning 'town on the hill under the high wood'.[8]

A portion of Exeter's city wall, formed of both Roman and medieval stones

Roman times

[edit]

TheRomansestablished a 42-acre (17 ha) 'playing-card' shaped (rectangle with round corners and two short and two long sides) fort (Latin:castrum) namedIscaaround AD 55. The fort was the southwest terminus of theFosse Way(Route 15 of theAntonine Itinerary) and served as the base of the5 000-manSecond Augustan Legion(Legio II Augusta) at some time led by Vespasian, later Roman Emperor, for the next 20 years before they moved toCaerleoninWales, which was also known asIsca. To distinguish the two, the Romans also referred to Exeter asIsca Dumnoniorum, "Watertown of theDumnonii", and Caerleon as Isca Augusta. A small fort was also maintained atTopsham; a supply depot on the route between the two was excavated atSt Loyesnear Topsham Road in 2010.[9]

The presence of the fort built up an unplanned civilian community (vicusorcanabae) ofnativesand the soldiers' families, mostly to the northeast of the fort. This settlement served as thetribal capital(civitas) of theDumnonii[10]and was listed as one of their four cities (Greek:poleis) byPtolemyin hisGeography[11](it also appeared in the 7th-centuryRavenna Cosmography, where it appears as an apparentlyconfusedentry forScadu Namorum[12]). When the fortress was abandoned around the year 75, its grounds were converted to civilian purposes: its very largebathhousewas demolished to make way for aforumand abasilica, and a smaller-scale bath was erected to the southeast.[10]This area was excavated in the 1970s,[13][14]but could not be maintained for public view owing to its proximity to thepresent-day cathedral. In January 2015, it was announced that Exeter Cathedral had launched a bid to restore the baths and open an underground centre for visitors.[15]

In the late 2nd century, the ditch and rampart defences around the old fortress were replaced by a bank and wall enclosing a much larger area, some 92 acres (37 hectares).[16]Although most of the visible structure is older, the course of the Roman wall was used for Exeter's subsequent city walls. Thus about 70% of the Roman wall remains, and most of its route can be traced on foot. The Devonian Isca seems to have been most prosperous in the first half of the 4th century: more than a thousandRoman coinshave been found around the city and there is evidence for copper and bronze working, a stock-yard, and markets for the livestock, crops, and pottery produced in the surrounding countryside.[17]The dating of the coins so far discovered, however, suggests a rapid decline: virtually none have been discovered dated after the year 380.[18]

Medieval times

[edit]

Bishop Ussheridentified theCairPensavelCoyt,[19]listed among the 28citiesofBritainby theHistory of the Britons, as Isca,[20]although David Nash Ford read it as a reference toPenselwoodand thought it more likely to beLindinis(modernIlchester).[21]Nothing is certainly known of Exeter from the time of theRoman withdrawal from Britainaround the year 410 until the seventh century.[22]By that time, the city was held by theSaxons, who had arrived in Exeter after defeating theBritishDumnoniansatPeonnuminSomersetin 658.[23]It seems likely that the Saxons maintained a quarter of the city for the Britons under their own laws around present-day Bartholomew Street,[24]which was known as "Britayne" Street until 1637 in memory of its former occupants.[25]

Exeter was known to the Saxons asEscanceaster.[4]In 876, it wasattacked and briefly capturedbyDanishVikings.Alfred the Greatdrove them out the next summer.[26]Over the next few years, he elevated Exeter to one of the fourburhsin Devon, rebuilding its walls on the Roman lines.[27]These permitted the city to fend off another attack and siege by the Danes in 893.[27]King Athelstanagain strengthened the walls around 928, and at the same time drove out the remainingBritonsfrom the city.[26](It is uncertain, though, whether they had lived in the city continuously since the Roman period or returned from the countryside when Alfred strengthened its defences.[28]) According toWilliam of Malmesbury, they were sent beyond theRiver Tamar, which was fixed as the boundary of Devon. (This may, however, have served as a territorial boundary within the former kingdom ofDumnoniaas well.[29]) Other references suggest that the British simply moved to what is now theSt David'sarea, not far outside Exeter's walls. The quarter vacated by the Britons was apparently adapted as "theearl's burh" and was still named Irlesberi in the 12th century.[26]In 1001, the Danes again failed to get into the city, but they were able to plunder it in 1003 because they were let in, for unknown reasons, by theFrenchreeveofEmma of Normandy, who had been given the city as part of her dowry on her marriage toÆthelred the Unreadythe previous year.[26]

The gatehouse of Rougemont Castle

Two years after theNorman conquest of England, Exeter rebelled againstKing William.Gytha Thorkelsdóttir, the mother of the slainKing Harold, was living in the city at the time, and William promptly marched west andinitiated a siege. After 18 days, William accepted the city's honourable surrender, swearing an oath not to harm the city or increase itsancient tribute. However, William quickly arranged for the building ofRougemont Castleto strengthen Norman control over the area. Properties owned by Saxon landlords were transferred into Norman hands and, on the death ofBishop Leofricin 1072, the NormanOsbern FitzOsbernwas appointed his successor.[30]

In 1136, early inthe Anarchy, Rougemont Castle was held againstKing StephenbyBaldwin de Redvers. Redvers submitted only after a three-month siege, not when the three wells in the castle ran dry, but only after the exhaustion of the large supplies of wine that the garrison was using for drinking, baking, cooking, and putting out fires set by the besiegers.[31]During the siege, King Stephen built an earthen fortification at the site now known (erroneously) as Danes Castle.[32]

Remains of the medieval Exe Bridge, built around 1200 [33]
Oil on canvas painting by an unknown artist c.1870. These houses were later demolished to make way for St Edmund's Church. The painting depicts the edge of the River Exeflowing under three arches of the Old Exe Bridge, with houses on the bridge and on the river bank, St Edmund's Church can be seen in the top left.

The city held a weekly market for the benefit of its citizens from at least 1213, and by 1281 Exeter was the only town in the south-west to have three market days per week. There are also records of seven annual fairs, the earliest of which dates from 1130, and all of which continued until at least the early 16th century.[34]

Prior to theexpulsionof the Jews of England in 1290, Exeter was home to England's most westerly Jewish community.[35]

During the high medieval period, both the cathedral clergy and the citizens enjoyed access to sophisticated aqueduct systems which brought pure drinking water into the city from springs in the neighbouring parish of St Sidwell's. For part of their length, these aqueducts were conveyed through a remarkable network of tunnels, or underground passages, which survive largely intact and which may still be visited today.[36]

Exeter andBristolhosted the first recorded Common Council in the Medieval England.[37]The first detailed and continuous evidence of its existence and activity was founded after 1345.[38]Formed by twelve "better and more discreet men" (inLatin:duodecim meliores), reelected each year, it was originally designed to control the abuse of the Major and of his fourstewards, which respectively presided over the borough court and the provost court. The members of the Common Council come from the same elite of wealthy citizens, as did the major and the stewards[39]and this concern introduced a second conflict of interests in the government organism of the city.

Modern times

[edit]
An illustration of Exeter in 1563, entitled Civitas Exoniae (vulgo Excester) urbs primaria in comitatu Devoniae
Tudor and Stuart eras

In 1537, the city was made acounty corporate. In 1549, the city successfully withstood a month-long siege by the so-calledPrayer Book rebels: Devon and Cornish folk who had been infuriated by the radical religious policies of King Edward VI. The insurgents occupied the suburbs of Exeter, burnt down two of the city gates and attempted to undermine the city walls, but were eventually forced to abandon the siege after they had been worsted in a series of bloody battles with the king's army. A number of rebels were executed in the immediate aftermath of the siege.[40]TheLivery Dolealmshousesand chapel atHeavitreewere founded in March 1591 and finished in 1594.

WhenJohn Hookerwas appointed to the city payroll in 1561, he created the Court of Orphans as a municipal government for families broken by the premature death of their major economic source. He also was made the Common Council as the legal owner of any estate left to the orphan children of Exeter, until they have reached the age of 21 to be partially paid back.[41]The orphan tax was used to fund the construction of the Exeter canal.[42]

The city's motto,Semper fidelis, is traditionally held to have been suggested byElizabeth I, in acknowledgement of the city's contribution of ships to help defeat theSpanish Armadain 1588;[43]however its first documented use is in 1660.[citation needed]Schools in Exeter teach that the motto was bestowed by Charles II in 1660 at the Restoration due to Exeter's role in theEnglish Civil War.[citation needed]

When in 1638Reverend John Wheelwrightwas exiled from theMassachusetts Bay Colonyand subsequently established a community on the banks of theSquamscott River, he named the regionExeterafter its Devonian counterpart. During theAmerican Revolutionit became the capital ofNew Hampshire.[44]

Exeter was secured for Parliament at the beginning of the English Civil War, and its defences very much strengthened, but in September 1643 it was captured by the Cornish Royalist Army led by Prince Maurice. Thereafter, the city remained firmly under the king's control until near the end of the war, being one of the final Royalist cities to fall into Parliamentarian hands.[45]The surrender of Exeter was negotiated in April 1646 atPoltimore HousebyThomas Fairfax.[46]During this period, Exeter was an economically powerful city, with a strong trade ofwool. This was partly due to the surrounding area which was "more fertile and better inhabited than that passed over the preceding day" according to CountLorenzo Magalottiwho visited the city when he was 26 years old.[47]Magalotti writes of over thirty thousand people being employed in the county of Devon as part of the wool and cloth industries, merchandise that was sold to "the West Indies, Spain, France and Italy".[48]Celia Fiennes also visited Exeter during this period, in the early 18th century. She remarked on the "vast trade" and "incredible quantity" in Exeter, recording that "it turns the most money in a week of anything in England", between £10,000 and £15,000.[49]

Georgian and Victorian eras
John Rocque's 1744 map of Exeter

Early in theIndustrial Revolution, Exeter's industry developed on the basis of locally available agricultural products and, since the city's location on a fast-flowing river gave it ready access towater power, an early industrial site developed on drained marshland to the west of the city, atExe Island. However, whensteam powerreplaced water in the 19th century, Exeter was too far from sources of coal (or iron) to develop further. As a result, the city declined in relative importance and was spared the rapid 19th-century development that changed many historic European cities. Extensive canal redevelopments during this period further expanded Exeter's economy, with "vessels of 15 to 16 tons burthen [bringing] up goods and merchandise fromTopshamto the CityQuay".[50]In 1778 a new bridge across the Exe was opened to replace the old medieval bridge. Built at a cost of £30,000, it had three arches and was built of stone.[51]

Frontispiece to Shapter's "History of the Cholera in Exeter in 1832"

In 1832,cholera, which had been erupting all across Europe, reached Exeter. The only known documentation of this event was written by DrThomas Shapter, one of the medical doctors present during the epidemic.[52]

The first railway to arrive in Exeter was theBristol and Exeter Railwaythat opened a station atSt Davidson the western edge in 1844. TheSouth Devon Railway Companyextended the line westwards toPlymouth, opening their own smaller station atSt Thomas, above Cowick Street. A more central railway station, that atQueen Street, was opened by theLondon and South Western Railwayin 1860 when it opened its alternative route to London. ButchersLloyd Maundermoved to their present base in 1915, to gain better access to theGreat Western Railwayfor transportation ofmeat productsto London.

The High Street ca. 1895

The first electricity in Exeter was provided by the Exeter Electric Light Company, which was formed at the end of the 1880s, but it wasmunicipalisedin 1896 and became the City of Exeter Electricity Company.[53]In 1896 £88,000 was spent constructing sewerage system which reduced the risk of infectious diseases,[54]

The firsthorse-drawn trams in Exeterwere introduced in 1882 with 3 lines radiating from the city's East Gate. One line went to St David's station via New North Road, the Obelisk (where the Clock Tower now stands) and St David's Hill. The second line went out along Heavitree Road to Livery Dole and the third went to Mount Pleasant along Sidwell Street. There was a depot off New North Road.[55]

20th century

[edit]
Lamp standard from the 1905 Exe bridge, installed at Butts Ferry, on Exeter Quayside, in 1983

A new bridge across the Exe was opened on 29 March 1905, replacing the former Georgian bridge. Made ofcast ironand steel with athree hinged archdesign, it cost £25,000 and was designed by SirJohn Wolfe Barry.[51]Also in 1905,electric tramsreplaced the horse trams[56]with a new route which passed along the High Street, down Fore Street and over the new Exe Bridge. Once across the Exe the line divided, with one route along Alphington Road and another along Cowick Street. The line to St David's Station travelled along Queen Street instead of along New North Road and the line to Heavitree was extended.[57]On 17 March 1917, a tram went out of control going down Fore Street, hit a horse-drawn wagon, then overturned on Exe Bridge; one female passenger was killed.[58]By the 1920s there were problems with congestion caused by the trams, a need for expensive track renewal work and the slow speed of the trams in Exeter's narrow streets. After much discussion, the council decided to replace the tram service with double-decker buses and the last tram ran on 19 August 1931. The only remaining Exeter tram in service is car 19, now at theSeaton Tramway.[59]

Watercolour by Olive Wharrycirca 1942 of St. Sidwell's Church, Exeter, after the Blitz. In the early hours of 4th May 1942 a 250kg bomb fell directly on St Sidwells. The church tower was left standing but was so badly damaged that it was pulled down shortly after. A replacement church was built on the site. From the Royal Albert Memorial Museum's collection (63/2004/4).

Exeter was bombed by the German Luftwaffe during the Second World War when a total of 18 raids between 1940 and 1942 flattened much of the city centre. Between April 1941 and April 1943, Exeter was defended from enemy bombers by theNo. 307 Polish Night Fighter Squadron, nicknamed the 'Lwów Eagle Owls', who were based atExeter Airport. The city ofLwówshared the same motto as the city of Exeter – 'Semper Fidelis' (Always faithful).

In April and May 1942, as part of theBaedeker Blitzand specifically in response to the RAF bombing ofLübeckandRostock, 40 acres (16 hectares) of the city were leveled by incendiary bombing. Many historic buildings in the center—particularly adjacent to High Street and Sidwell Street—were destroyed, and others, including the cathedral, were damaged. On the night of 4 May, the Polish 307 Squadron dispatched four available aircraft against forty GermanJunkers Ju 88bombers, preventing four German aircraft from releasing their load of bombs on Exeter. 156 people were killed, but the squadron suffered no casualties in the process.

To commemorate the friendship that had formed between the 307 Squadron and Exeter, the squadron presented the city with a Polish flag on 15 November 1942 (the first British city to have had that honour) outsideExeter Cathedral. Since 2012, a Polish flag is raised over the city's Guildhall on 15 November; the day is now known as '307 Squadron Day' in Exeter. On 15 November 2017, a plaque in memory of the squadron was unveiled in the St James Chapel of Exeter Cathedral by the Polish Ambassador Arkady Rzegocki.

Large areas of the city centre were rebuilt in the 1950s, with little attempt to preserve or restore historic buildings. The street plan was altered in an attempt to improve traffic circulation, and former landmarks like St Lawrence, the College of the Vicars Choral, and Bedford circus disappeared. The modern architecture stands in sharp contrast to the red sandstone of buildings that survived the Blitz.[60]One notable exception wasThe House That Moved, which is one of Europe's oldest private residences,[61]which was due for demolition for a new relief road, but was saved after the intervention of the Ministry of Works, and was moved to a new location.[62][63]

Exe Flood Relief Channel built after the floods of 1960

On 27 October 1960, following very heavy rain, the Exe overflowed and flooded large areas of Exeter including Exwick, St Thomas and Alphington. The water rose as high as 2 metres above ground level in places and 150 employees of the local firm Beach Bros were trapped for nine hours. 2,500 properties were flooded. Later the same year on 3 December the river levels rose again, flooding 1,200 properties. These floods led to the construction of newflood defencesfor Exeter. Work began in 1965, took 12 years to complete and cost £8 million. The defences included threeflood relief channels, and were complemented by the construction of two new concrete bridges (built in 1969 and 1972) to replace the old Exe Bridge which had obstructed the flow of the river and made the flooding worse.[64]

A high-profile, random murder of a child occurred in the city in 1997, which today remains one of the UK's highest-profile unsolved murders. 14-year-oldKate Bushell, a pupil at what is nowWest Exe School, had her throat cut by an unidentified attacker while walking her dog along Exwick Lane, Exwick, on 15 November 1997. Despite the police insisting the killer must be local and repeatedly appealing for locals to come forward with information onCrimewatch, the attacker has never been identified. Police believe Bushell's murder is possibly linked to the murder of dogwalkerLyn Bryantin Cornwall only one year later in 1998. Police have DNA evidence in the Bryant case and there remains a £10,000 reward for information in both cases.[65]

21st century

[edit]

ThePrincesshayshopping centre adjoining theCathedral Closeand the High Street was redeveloped between 2005 and 2007,[66][67]despite some local opposition.[68]It incorporates 123 varied residential units.[69]

To enable people with limited mobility to enjoy the city, Exeter Community Transport Association provides manual and powered wheelchairs and scooters ('Shopmobility') for use by anyone suffering from short- or long-term mobility impairment to access the city centre shopping facilities, events and meetings with friends.[70]

In May 2008 there was anattempted terrorist attackon the Giraffe cafe in Princesshay, but the bomber was the only one injured.[71]

John Lewis Building, adjacent to Waterstones in the busy high street.
John Lewis Building (right), adjacent to Waterstones (left) in the busy high street

On 12 October 2012,John Lewisopened its first high-street home store on Sidwell Street, with an area of 65,000 ft, it was the biggest John Lewis store to open that year.[72]It took on 300 staff.[73]

A £30 million improvement scheme for the flood defences was approved in March 2015. The plans involve the removal ofcheck weirsand a deeper, "meandering stream" in the centre of the drainage channels to improve flow. The plans followed a study by theEnvironment Agencythat revealed weaknesses in the current defences.[74]Acommunity currencyfor the city, theExeter Pound, was introduced in 2015[75]and dissolved in 2018.[76]

A serious fire broke out in buildings in central Exeter on 28 October 2016. TheRoyal Clarence Hotel, 18 Cathedral Yard and The Well House Tavern[77]were severely damaged in the fire.[78][79]In July 2017 the restoration plans were officially unveiled, with the rebuild expected to be completed in 18 months and a scheduled reopening of the hotel in 2019.[80][81]18 Cathedral Yard was repaired by November 2018, but there was a second round of bids for the work to complete repairs to The Well House, and to rebuild the Royal Clarence Hotel as a 74-bedroom hotel.[82][83][84]However, in late 2021 it was announced that the hotel scheme was "significantly unviable",[85]and the Royal Clarence site would be converted into twenty-three luxury apartments with the ground floor acting as a leisure and hospitality space.[86]The plans were officially grantedpermissionon 11 October 2022. The work, involving the demolition and reconstruction of the remaining fabric, will last just under eighteen months and is due to begin in the summer of 2023.[87]

On 27 February 2021 a 2,200 lb (1,000 kg) Second World War bomb was uncovered at a construction site and more than 2,600 people were evacuated.Bomb Disposalsquads used approximately 400 tons of sand to secure it. It was safely detonated at 18:12.[88]By 1 March hundreds of the evacuees were unable to return to their properties, due to damage caused by the detonation of the bomb.[89]On 2 March the council permitted affected residents to return to their homes while noting that many might be "uninhabitable at this stage". TheUniversity of Exeterreported that some 300 students (of the 1,400 evacuated) had yet to return.[90]

Homelessness

[edit]

Exeter has the 6th highest number of rough sleepers on a single night of all local authorities in England (as of the autumn of 2020),[91]marking a 19% increase from 2019.[91]In 2014, Exeter had "...the unenviable status of having the highest per capita rate of rough sleeping outside of London".[92]During the COVID-19 pandemic, 102 people in Exeter rough sleeping, or at risk of rough sleeping were accommodated as part of the government's 'Everybody In' directive.[93][94]In Exeter City Council's recent 'Rough Sleeping Delivery Plan', a total of £3,351,347 was allocated for the purpose of reducing rough sleeping for the 2020–2021 period.[95]The government's Next Steps Accommodation Programme also provided Exeter City Council with £440,000 to help reduce the number of rough sleepers on Exeter's streets.[96]The council has also focussed its efforts on reducing rough sleeping in the long term, with a "£3 million Capital programme bid [for] the creation of 31 units of new long term move-on accommodation with dedicated support to be delivered before 31 March 2021".[94]

Governance

[edit]
The Exeter Law Courts
Exeter Civic Centre

Parliamentary

[edit]

Exeter is in two parliamentary constituencies, the majority of the city is in theExeter constituencybut two wards (St Loyes and Topsham) are inEast Devon. Since World War II until recently, Exeter itself was relatively marginal, with its Member of Parliament usually drawn from the governing party. Nowadays the Exeter seat is increasingly becoming a Labour stronghold. The Exeter MP isSteve Race, with the Youth MP being Georgia Howell, andSimon Jupprepresents East Devon. Prior toBrexitin 2020, Exeter was part of theSouth West England European constituency, which elected 6MEPs.

Further to the completion of the2023 Periodic Review of Westminster constituencies,Exmouth and Exeter Eastwill first be contested at the2024 general election.[97]

Local Government

[edit]

Exeter'scity councilis adistrictauthority, and shares responsibility for local government with theDevon County Council. In May 2012 Labour became the majority party on the council.Exeter City Council's bid for the city to become aUnitary Authoritywas initially approved by ministers in February 2010. A judicial review was called by Devon County Council and the Court held that the Minister had acted unlawfully in granting Unitary status to Exeter at the same time, however, following the2010 general electionthenew coalition governmentannounced in May 2010 that the reorganisation would be blocked.[98][99]

From Saxon times, it was in thehundredofWonford.[100]Exeter has had amayorsince at least 1207 and until 2002, the city was the oldest 'Right Worshipful' Mayoralty in England. As part of theGolden Jubilee of Elizabeth IIExeter was chosen to receive the title ofLord Mayor. Councillor Granville Baldwin became the first Lord Mayor of Exeter on 1 May 2002 whenLetters Patentwere awarded to the city during a visit by the Queen. The Lord Mayor is elected each year from amongst the 39 Exeter citycouncillorsand is non-political for the term of office.

Public services

[edit]

Policing in Exeter is provided by theDevon and Cornwall Constabularywho have their headquarters at Middlemoor in the east of the city.

Thefire serviceis provided by theDevon and Somerset Fire and Rescue Service, which is headquartered at Clyst St George near Exeter. It has two fire stations located at Danes Castle and Middlemoor.

TheRoyal Devon University Healthcare NHS Foundation Trusthas a large hospital located to the south-east of the city centre. Ambulance services in Exeter are provided bySouth Western Ambulance ServiceNHS Trust. The West Trust Divisional HQ and 999 control is in Exeter which provides cover forDevon, Cornwall,Somersetand theIsles of Scilly.

Geography

[edit]
The River Exe

The city of Exeter was established on the eastern bank of theRiver Exeon a ridge of land backed by a steep hill. It is at this point that the Exe, having just been joined by theRiver Creedy, opens onto a wideflood plainand estuary which results in quite common flooding. Historically this was thelowest bridging pointof the River Exe which was tidal and navigable up to the city until the construction of weirs later in its history. This combined with the easily defensible higher ground of the ridge made the current location of the city a natural choice for settlement and trade. InGeorge Oliver'sThe History of the City of Exeter, it is noted that the most likely reasons for the original settling of what would become modern Exeter was the "fertility of the surrounding countryside" and the area's "beautiful and commanding elevation [and] its rapid and navigable river".[101]Its woodland would also have been ideal for natural resources and hunting.

Exeter sits predominantly on sandstone and conglomerate geology, although the structure of the surrounding areas is varied.[102]The topography of the ridge which forms the backbone of the city includes avolcanic plug, on which theRougemont Castleis situated. The cathedral is located on the edge of this ridge and is therefore visible for a considerable distance.

Exeter is 80 mi (130 km) west-southwest ofSalisbury, 158 mi (254 km) west-southwest ofLondon, 18 mi (29 km) north ofTorquay, 36 mi (58 km) northeast of Plymouth and 74 mi (119 km) east-northeast ofTruro.

Climate

[edit]
The Cathedral Green after a rare snowfall

Exeter has mild wet winters, punctuated by colder spells that are usually short-lived. Summer is characterised by warm and changeable weather with hot and cooler rainy spells. Temperatures do not vary much throughout the year compared to other locations at this latitude; however, the topography of Exeter can enhance the diurnal range by a couple degrees Celsius, as spots along the sheltered valley of the River Exe such as Quayside, St Thomas and Exwick see colder nights and warmer days, the only exception to this is with foggy and frosty weather in the winter during anticyclonic activity when fog can linger all day and keep daytime temperatures suppressed.[citation needed]Similarly, the same weather patterns can elevate the maximum daily temperatures, The hottest month is July with an average high of 21.7 °C (71.1 °F), and the coldest month is January with an average high of 8.8 °C (47.8 °F). October is the wettest month with 88.9 mm (3.50 in) of rain. The weather station for these reading is at Exeter Airport; adding one degree Celsius to the readings from the maximum daily temperature and deducting a degree from the overnight minima broadly covers the location disparity.[citation needed]It is precisely because of shelter fromDartmoorthat Exeter is more frost-prone than areas to the southwest, such asPlymouth. It is also drier and warmer in the summer for the same reason. The highest recorded temperature in Exeter stands at 33.5 °C (92.3 °F)[103]recorded in June 1976, while the lowest recorded temperature is −16.4 °C (2.5 °F)[104]recorded in December 2010.

Climate data for Exeter Airport (EXT), elevation: 27 m (89 ft), 1991–2020 normals, extremes 1958–present
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 16.6
(61.9)
14.9
(58.8)
21.0
(69.8)
23.6
(74.5)
27.5
(81.5)
33.5
(92.3)
32.2
(90.0)
33.0
(91.4)
26.9
(80.4)
26.0
(78.8)
18.6
(65.5)
15.9
(60.6)
33.5
(92.3)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 9.1
(48.4)
9.4
(48.9)
11.3
(52.3)
13.8
(56.8)
17.1
(62.8)
20.0
(68.0)
21.8
(71.2)
21.6
(70.9)
19.3
(66.7)
15.5
(59.9)
12.0
(53.6)
9.4
(48.9)
15.0
(59.0)
Daily mean °C (°F) 5.9
(42.6)
5.9
(42.6)
7.4
(45.3)
9.3
(48.7)
12.2
(54.0)
15.2
(59.4)
17.0
(62.6)
16.9
(62.4)
14.6
(58.3)
11.6
(52.9)
8.2
(46.8)
6.0
(42.8)
10.9
(51.6)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 2.6
(36.7)
2.4
(36.3)
3.5
(38.3)
4.8
(40.6)
7.3
(45.1)
10.4
(50.7)
12.1
(53.8)
12.1
(53.8)
9.9
(49.8)
7.8
(46.0)
4.4
(39.9)
2.7
(36.9)
6.7
(44.1)
Record low °C (°F) −15.0
(5.0)
−9.3
(15.3)
−9.6
(14.7)
−4.4
(24.1)
−1.7
(28.9)
0.9
(33.6)
2.1
(35.8)
2.0
(35.6)
−1.0
(30.2)
−3.9
(25.0)
−6.2
(20.8)
−16.4
(2.5)
−16.4
(2.5)
Averageprecipitationmm (inches) 85.6
(3.37)
65.1
(2.56)
62.3
(2.45)
61.4
(2.42)
51.0
(2.01)
53.8
(2.12)
48.2
(1.90)
64.1
(2.52)
60.3
(2.37)
92.5
(3.64)
95.3
(3.75)
90.1
(3.55)
829.2
(32.65)
Mean monthlysunshine hours 58.4 82.7 117.1 167.4 195.5 194.7 193.8 171.8 151.2 106.8 69.5 52.6 1,561.6
Source 1: Magic seaweed
Source 2:KNMI[105]

Demographics

[edit]
Population pyramid of Exeter (district) in 2021

From the 2011 Census, theOffice for National Statisticspublished that Exeter's district area population was 117,773;[108]6,697 more people than that of thelast censusfrom 2001, which indicated that Exeter had a population of 111,076.[109]At the time of the 2011 UK census, the ethnic composition of Exeter's population was 93.1%White, with the largest minority ethnic group beingChineseat 1.7%.[3]The White British, White Irish and other ethnic group all declined in numbers since the 2001 census (−1%, -6% and −10% respectively). Meanwhile, the Chinese andOther Asianhad the largest increases (429% and 434% respectively).[3][110]This excludes the two new ethnic groups added to the 2011 census of Gypsy or Irish Traveller and Arab. Below are the 10 largest immigrant groups in Exeter as of 2011.[3]

Country of Birth Immigrants in Exeter (2011 Census)
China 1,665
Poland 1,296
Germany 710
India 653
Ireland 469
South Africa 438
USA 350
France 310
Philippines 295
Australia 242

In 2011, the City of Exeter had a population of 117,773, while its inner urban subdivision had a population of 113,507. The Exeter USD (urban subdivision) does not include the town ofTopsham, which while it is administratively part of the city, it is often considered a separate individual settlement as well as the fact its excluded from the city's constituency.

Exeter compared 2011 Exeter USD Exeter City
White British 88.1% 88.3%
Asian 4.0% 3.9%
Black 0.6% 0.5%

[111]

In 2011, 11.9% of the population of the Exeter USD were non-white British, compared with 11.7% for the actual city and surrounding borough of Exeter.

In 2009, Exeter City was 89.1%White British, compared with 88.3% in 2011.[112]

The Exeter Urban Area had a population of 124,079[113]in 2014, compared with 124,328 for the city and borough of Exeter. While the Exeter Metropolitan Area had a population of 467,257 in the same year and includes Exeter along withTeignbridge,Mid DevonandEast Devon.[114]Out of all the Devon districts, Exeter receives the largest number of commuters from East Devon, followed by Teignbridge. Most of the city's ethnic minority population live in the central, northwestern and eastern suburbs of the city. Outlying areas such asPinhoe,Cowickand the expensive suburb ofTopshamare all 95% White British as of 2011.

Ethnicity

[edit]

The ethnicity of the City of Exeter from 1991 to 2021 is below:

Ethnic Group Year
1991[115] 2001[116] 2011[117] 2021[118]
Number % Number % Number % Number %
White: Total 96,811 98.7% 108,459 97.6% 109,590 93.1% 118,034 90.3%
White:British 105,231 94.7% 104,013 88.3% 108,095 82.7%
White:Irish 668 629 875 0.7%
White:Gypsy or Irish Traveller 93 100 0.1%
White: Roma 181 0.1%
White:Other 2,560 2.3% 4,855 4.1% 8,783 6.7%
Asian or Asian British: Total 663 0.7% 1,107 1% 4,595 3.9% 6,375 4.8%
Asian or Asian British:Indian 212 284 946 1,588 1.2%
Asian or Asian British:Pakistani 37 67 164 274 0.2%
Asian or Asian British:Bangladeshi 80 142 227 513 0.4%
Asian or Asian British:Chinese 185 378 1,998 2,020 1.5%
Asian or Asian British: Other Asian 149 236 1,260 1,980 1.5%
Black or Black British: Total 202 0.3% 225 0.2% 667 0.6% 1,137 0.9%
Black or Black British:Caribbean 51 62 128 893 0.7%
Black or Black British:African 76 142 492 137 0.1%
Black or Black British:Other Black 75 21 47 107 0.1%
Mixed or British Mixed: Total 924 1% 1,938 1.6% 3,308 2.6%
Mixed: White and Black Caribbean 179 403 503 0.4%
Mixed: White and Black African 108 278 484 0.4%
Mixed: White and Asian 350 773 1305 1.0%
Mixed: Other Mixed 287 484 1016 0.8%
Other: Total 449 0.5% 361 0.3% 983 0.8% 1,853 1.4%
Other: Arab 659 802 0.6%
Other: Any other ethnic group 449 0.5% 361 0.3% 324 1,051 0.8%
Total 98,125 100% 111,076 100% 117,773 100% 130,707 100%

Religion

[edit]
Religion 2001[119] 2011[120]
Number % Number %
Holds religious beliefs 78,839 70.9 67,382 57.2
Christian 76,773 69.1 63,486 53.9
Buddhist 375 0.3 683 0.6
Hindu 123 0.1 372 0.3
Jewish 152 0.1 155 0.1
Muslim 858 0.8 1,855 1.6
Sikh 76 0.1 160 0.1
Other religion 482 0.4 671 0.6
(No religion and Religion not stated) 32,237 29.1 50,391 42.8
No religion 22,719 20.5 40,862 34.7
Religion not stated 9,518 8.6 9,529 8.1
Total population 111,076 100.0 117,773 100.0

Economy

[edit]
Princesshay Shopping Centre with Exeter Cathedral in the background
The Higher Market, Exeter, in 1943; at this time the larger firms such as Mac Fisherieshad joined the smaller shopkeepers' stalls in the market, which, before the war, along with neighbouring Goldsmith Street, was earmarked for demolition; a new Civic Centre was to be built on the site.

TheMet Office, the main weather forecasting organisation for the United Kingdom and one of the most significant in the world, relocated fromBracknellin Berkshire to Exeter in early 2004. It is one of the largest employers in the area (together with theUniversity of Exeter,Devon County Counciland theRoyal Devon and Exeter NHS Foundation Trust).

Around 35,000 people commute into Exeter on a daily basis, from nearby surrounding towns.[121]Exeter provides services, employment and shopping for local residents within the city limits and also from nearby towns inTeignbridge,Mid DevonandEast Devon, together sometimes known as the Exeter & Heart of Devon area (EHOD). Exeter therefore provides for the EHOD area population of 457,400.[122]

Exeter has been identified among the top ten most profitable locations for a business to be based.[123]As of 2022, 39% of Exeter workers are in professional occupations, much higher than the national average of 26%. However, median pay for full-time workers is below the figure for Great Britain as a whole, though above that forSouth West England.[124]

The city centre provides substantial shopping facilities. The High Street is mainly devoted to branches of national chains: aNEFsurvey in 2005 rated Exeter as the worst example of aclone townin the UK, with only a single independent store in the city's High Street, and less diversity (in terms of different categories of shop) than any other town surveyed. In 2010, a similar survey reported the city was still the worst clone town.[125]As of 2019, the last independent store on the high street is closed.[126]Three significant shopping areas that connect to the High Street provide a somewhat more varied menu.Princesshay, apost-warretail area connecting to the south side of the High Street was home to a number of independent stores prior to redevelopment in 2007, but is now also largely occupied by national chains. It is still intended that a number of the new units will be let to local independent stores.[citation needed]TheHouse of Fraserbuilding on the high street has been bought by a local wealth performance management firm, Prydis, who have released their plans to redevelop the building as a three-storey hotel with a rooftop bar and retail shops.[127]

On the other side of the High Street, the partly-undercover Guildhall Shopping Centre houses a mixture of national and more regional shops, and connects to the wholly enclosed Harlequins Centre where smaller businesses predominate. Smaller streets off the High Street such as Gandy Street also offer a range of independent shops.[128]

On 26 June 2004, Exeter was grantedFairtrade Citystatus.[129]

Although Exeter contains a number of tourist attractions, the city is not dominated by tourism, with only 7% of employment dependent on tourism compared with 13% for Devon as a whole (2005 figures).[130]

There are also plans to build on land in the Teignbridge and East Devon areas, which border Exeter's boundaries, as part of the "Exeter Growth Point" strategy. This includes thenew townofCranbrook, located about five mi (eight km) east of the city in East Devon, where construction began in 2011 and which is now home to several thousand residents.[131][132][133]

Landmarks

[edit]
A panorama of the city taken from the roof of the north tower of the cathedral

Among the notable buildings in Exeter are:

Religious buildings

[edit]
Exeter Cathedraland the Devon County War Memorial
  • Thecathedral, founded in 1050 when the bishop's seat was moved from the nearby town ofCrediton(birthplace ofSaint Boniface) because Exeter's Roman walls offered better protection against "pirates", presumablyVikings. A statue ofRichard Hooker, the 16th centuryAnglicantheologian, who was born in Exeter, has a prominent place in theCathedral Close.
  • St Nicholas Prioryin Mint Lane, the remains of amonastery, later used as a private house and now a museum owned by the city council. The priory was founded in medieval times and was home to Benedictine monks for over 400 years, until it was closed and partly demolished byHenry VIII. The remaining buildings were then sold off in 1602 and became the home of the locally wealthy Hurst family. The property has been fully renovated by Exeter City Council, and the small garden area features Tudor plants and herbs[134]
  • A number of medieval churches includingSt Mary Stepswhich has an elaborate clock.
  • TheExeter Synagogueis the third oldest synagogue in Britain, completed in 1763.
  • St Thomas' Church, originally built in the 13th century just outside the city walls. Destroyed by fire and rebuilt in the 17th century; grade I listed.[135]
A panorama of Exeter Cathedral and Cathedral Close

Secular buildings and features

[edit]
" The House That Moved", West Street, Exeter
  • TheruinsofRougemont Castle; later parts of the castle were still in use by the Crown Court and the County Court until 2004 when the newExeter Law Courtsopened. A plaque near the surviving medieval gatehouse recalls the fate ofAlice Molland, tried forwitchcraftat Exeter in 1685, and reputedly the last person in England to have been executed for that crime; others convicted of witchcraft had been hanged in Exeter in 1581, 1610, and 1682.[136][137]
  • TheGuildhall, which has medieval foundations and has been claimed to be the oldest municipal building in England still in use.[138]
  • Mol's Coffee House, a historic building in the Cathedral Close.
  • Tuckers' Hall, a 15th-century guild hall for the incorporation of Weavers, Fullers and Shearmen, that is still in use today.
  • TheCustom Housein theQuay area, which is the oldest brick building surviving in the city.
  • "The House That Moved", a 14th-centuryTudorbuilding, earned its name in 1961 when it was moved from its original location on the corner of Edmund Street in order for a new road to be built in its place. Weighing more than twenty-one tonnes, it was strapped together and slowly moved a few inches at a time to its present-day position.
  • Parliament Streetin the city centre is one of the narrowest streets in the world.
  • TheButts Ferry, an ancientcable ferryacross the River Exe.
  • Wyvern Barracks, a former artillery barracks, dates back to about 1800.[139]
  • Higher Barracks, a former cavalry barracks, dates back to 1794.[140]
  • TheDevon County War Memorialin the Cathedral Close, designed bySir Edwin Lutyensand unveiled in 1922 byEdward, Prince of Wales.[141]

Northernhay Gardens

[edit]

Located just outside the castle,Northernhay Gardensis the oldest public open space in England, being originally laid out in 1612 as a pleasure walk for Exeter residents.

Transport

[edit]

Car

[edit]
Bridge carrying the M5 motorwayacross the River Exe

TheM5 motorwaytoBristoland Exeter starts atBirmingham, and connects at Bristol with theM4to London andSouth Wales. The olderA30 roadprovides a more direct route to London via theA303andM3. The M5 is the modern lowest bridging point of theRiver Exe. Going westwards, theA38connects Exeter toPlymouthand south eastCornwall, whilst the A30 continues viaOkehamptonto Cornwall and ends atPenzance. The cities ofBristol,Plymouth,Bath,SalisburyandTrurocan all be reached within two hours.

Travel by car in the city is often difficult with regular jams centred on the Exe Bridges area. Historically, the bridges were a significant bottleneck for holiday traffic heading to southwest England, leading to the construction of the first bypass in the mid-1930s overCountess Wear Bridge, followed by the M5 in 1977.[142]To further address the problem of congestion in the city centre,Devon County Councilopened threepark and ridesites, and in 2006 considered the introduction ofcongestion charges.[143]

Bus

[edit]

Exeter's main operator of local buses isStagecoach South West, which operates most of the services in the city.Dartline, is a minor operator in the city. Former operator Cooks Coaches were taken over byStagecoachforming Stagecoach South West.Western Greyhoundwas also a main operator connecting Exeter toCornwalluntil its services were taken over byFirst Devon & Cornwall,Plymouth CitybusandStagecoach South Westin March 2015.[144]On July 25, 2021, the newbus stationopened. It was "...built on the same site as the old station, was funded by Exeter City Council and a £800,000 grant from the Local Enterprise Partnership’s (LEP) ‘Getting Building Fund’."[145]

Railway

[edit]
Exeter St Davids Railway Station

Exeter is a major rail hub in the South West and is linked to most branch lines in Devon, including toPaignton,Exmouth,BarnstapleandOkehampton. This makes it possible to reach most stations in Devon directly fromExeter St Davids.

Exeter is served by three main railway stations.Exeter St Davidsis served by all services and is a majorinterchange stationwithin theSouth West Peninsula's rail network, whilstExeter Centralis more convenient for the city centre but served only by local services and the main line route toLondon Waterloo.In the south-west of the city,Exeter St Thomasserves the western side of the city. There are also seven suburban stations,Topsham,St James Park,Polsloe Bridge,Pinhoe,Digby & Sowton,Marsh BartonandNewcourt, served only by local services. Under the ongoingDevon Metroscheme, a gradual upgrade programme is underway to bring arapid transit-style service on Exeter'slocal railnetwork using these existing commuter lines.

There are two main line railway routes from Exeter to London, the fasterroute via Taunton and Reading to London Paddingtonand the slowerWest of England Main LineviaSalisburyandBasingstoketoLondon Waterloo. Another main line, theCross Country Route, links Exeter withBristol,Birmingham,Derby,Leeds,Newcastle,EdinburghandAberdeen.Great Western RailwayandCrossCountryservices continue westwards along theExeter to Plymouth Line, variously servingTorquay,PlymouthandCornwall. Local branch lines run toPaignton(seeRiviera Line),Exmouth(seeAvocet Line),Barnstaple(seeTarka Line) andOkehampton(seeDartmoor Line).

TheExeter to Plymouth line of the London and South Western Railway (LSWR)used to provide an alternative route viaOkehamptonconnecting northCornwallandPlymouthto Exeter and the rest of the UK railway system until its closure in 1968. There are proposals to reopen the line from Okehampton via Tavistock to Bere Alston, for a through service to Plymouth.[146]On the night of 4 February 2014, amid high winds and extremely rough seas, part of theSouth Devon Railway sea wallat Dawlish was breached, washing away around 40 m (130 ft) of the wall and the ballast under the railway immediately behind and closing theExeter to Plymouth Line.Network Railbegan repair work[147]and the line reopened on 4 April 2014.[148]In the wake of widespread disruption caused by damage to the mainline track atDawlishby coastal storms in February 2014,Network Railis considering reopening the Bere Alston to Okehampton and Exeter section of theformer LSWR lineas an alternative to the coastal route.[149]

Air

[edit]
Exeter International Airport

Exeter Airportlies east of the city, and the local airline, previously calledJersey EuropeanandBritish Europeanbut later asFlybe, was a significant local employer until its collapse in 2020. It is also a base forTUI Airwayswith flights toFaro,Mallorca,Lanzaroteand elsewhere. The airport offers a range of scheduled flights to British and Irish regional airports andcharterflights. Connections to international hubs began withParis-Charles de Gaullein 2005 and later a daily service toAmsterdam Schiphol Airportwhich ended with the collapse of Flybe in 2020.Ryanairstarted flights in 2019 to Luqa, Naples and Málaga. Shortly adding Alicante but stopping the Naples and Luqa flights.

Canal

[edit]
Exeter Canal Basin

TheExeter Canal, also known as the Exeter Ship Canal, was first constructed by John Trew in about 1566,[150]representing one of the oldest artificial waterways in Britain. It was cut to bypass the St James' Weir that had been built across theRiver Exeat Duckes Marsh to provide a leat to a mill constructed just below the confluence of the Northbrook, in what became the village of Countess Weir. The weir had the effect of preventing water-borne trade in the City of Exeter and forced boats to load and unload atTopshamfrom where theEarls of Devonwere able to exact large tolls to transport goods to and from Exeter.

Originally three ft (0.9 m) deep and 16 ft (5 m) wide, the canal ran two mi (three km) from the confluence of the Matford Brook, just above Bridge Road inCountess Weirto Haven Banks, close to the centre of Exeter. In order to maintain a consistent navigable water level, another weir was constructed by Trew, just below the point the canal joins the river. The canal was later extended south to Topsham Lock3+2132mi (5.88 km), deepened and widened, and later still it was extended to Turf Lock nearPowderhamfive mi (eight km). The canal was successful until the middle of the 19th century since when its use gradually declined – the last commercial use was in 1972. However it is now widely used for leisure purposes, and the city basin is part of a £24 million redevelopment scheme.

Education

[edit]
Laver Building, University of Exeter

TheUniversity of Exeter, which has two campuses in the city, includes theBusiness School, theBill Douglas Cinema Museum, theHenry Wellcomebuilding for Biocatalysis, and, as of September 2018, the Exeter Centre forCircular Economy.

Exeter Collegeis afurther educationcollege. It previously operated as the solesixth formfor the entiremaintained schoolsector in the city. However, in 2014Exeter Mathematics Schoolwas established, afree schoolsixth form with a specialism in Mathematics.

For about 30 years the city of Exeter operated amaintained schoolsystem in which the divisions between phases came at different ages from most of the United Kingdom, with first, middle and high rather than infant, junior and secondary schools, so that children transferred between schools at the age of about 8 and 12 rather than 7 and 11.[citation needed]From 2005, however, it has adopted the more usual pattern, because of the pressures of the UKNational Curriculum. The changeover back to the more typical structure led to a citywide,PFIfunded, rebuilding programme for the high schools and led to the changing of names for some schools. Following the reorganisation there are 25 primary schools, four referral schools, threespecial schoolsand five secondary schools within Exeter.[151]The secondary schools areIsca Academy(formerly Priory High School),St James School(formerly St James High School),St Luke's Church of England School(formerly Vincent Thompson High School),St Peter's Church of England Aided School(a consolidation of the former Bishop Blackall High School for Girls and Heles High School for Boys) andWest Exe School(formerly St Thomas High School).

The city has a number of independent schools, includingExeter School,Exeter Cathedral School,The Maynard SchoolandSt Wilfrid's School.

There are specialist schools for pupils with sensory needs, including Exeter Royal Academy for Deaf Education, and the West of England School for the Partially Sighted.

The Atkinson Unit is a secure specialist residential and educational complex for children in care orremandedby the courts.

Religion

[edit]
St Michael's Church and Episcopal Building

Numerous churches, and other religious buildings, are present in Exeter. A majority belong to differing Christian denominations, including aChurch of Englandcathedral. The medieval city of Exeter had nearly 70 churches, chapels, monasteries and almshouses.[152]

Exeter Cathedralis the seat of theBishop of Exeter. The erection of the present building was completed in approximately 1400, and possesses the longest uninterrupted vaulted ceiling in England, as well as other noticeable characteristics. A collective of Anglican churches form theExeter Deanery.

There are two Catholic Churches: theSacred Heartand the Blessed Sacrament, with congregations reflecting the nature of older and more recent immigration.

Exeter Synagogue, located within a near proximity to Mary Arches Street, was completely erected in 1763.

Exeter's mosque and Islamic centreare located on York Road. The first mosque was opened in 1977.[153]The purpose-built mosque opened in 2011.

At the2001 census, 69.12% of Exeter's population stated their religion as Christian, which is mildly lower than the regional average of 73.99% and the national average of 71.74%. Despite this, all other religions had exceeded the regional average at just under 1%. Although, they were much lower than the national average with the exemption of Buddhism. 20.45% of Exeter's population stated they had no religion, which was higher than the regional average of 16.75% and the national average of 14.59%.[154]

Anglican churches

[edit]
St David's Church, Exeter

John Betjeman(writing in 1958) selectsSt David's("Caroe's best church"),St Martin's("characteristic little city church, 15th century"),St Mary Steps("medieval city church; font"), St Michael's ("Victorian, on a fine site"), and St Thomas's ("fittings"). His coverage of St Mary Arches is more detailed: "worth seeing ... as the completest Norman church in Devon: beautifully light and airy after its restoration from the bombing in 1942. 18th-century altar arrangements. Memorials to Exeter worthies, 16th to 18th centuries."[155]

The aforementioned collective of Anglican churches include St David's Church, located near to St David's Station. The church was envisaged byW. D. Caroe, with the windows being manufactured by Kempe & Tower, and was later constructed between 1897 and 1900. A tower stands on the northeast side, with the overall design being described as "highly picturesque" by Nikolaus Pevsner.

St Edmund-on-the-Bridge was built on the Exe Bridgec. 1230–40. Two arches of the bridge remain under the undercroft though the church was rebuilt in the Perpendicular style in 1835, using the old materials.

St Martin's is in theCathedral Close; the plan is odd, and there are numerous items of church furniture, though these are not of high aesthetic value. St Mary Arches is a Norman church with aisles. St Mary Steps was originally by the West Gate of the city; the font is Norman, and there is a remarkable early clock. St Michael, Heavitree was built in 1844–46 and extended later in the century.St Pancrasis of the 13th century and has a nave and chancel only; the font is Norman. The plan ofSt Petroc'schurch is highly unusual: a second chancel has been added facing north while the original chancel has another use and faces east. There are two aisles on the south, one of 1413 and another of the 16th century.

St Sidwell's church is by W. Burgess, 1812, in the Perpendicular style.St Stephen's churchis partly of the 13th century but most of the structure is as rebuilt in 1826.[156]St Michael and All Angels Churchon Mount Dinham has a spire which exceeds the height of the towers of Exeter Cathedral.

Sport

[edit]

Rugby union

[edit]

The city's professionalrugby unionteam is theExeter Chiefs. Founded in 1871, as Exeter Rugby Club, the team have played their home games atSandy Parkstadium, located adjacent to junction 30 of the M5, since 2006 after relocating from their previous stadium at the County Ground which had been used continually from 1905.[157]They have been continuous members of the highest division of English rugby, thePremiership, since 2010.[157]They have been English champions twice, in2017,[158]and 2020. Anglo-Welsh Cup winners twice, in 2014 and 2018.[159][160]In 2020, the club became European Champions for the first time in their history, defeating Parisian based club Racing 92 in the final at Bristol's Ashton Gate Stadium 31–27.

The city also has two other clubs: Wessex Rugby Club, which is located in Exwick, and Exeter Saracens Rugby Club,[161]which is located in Whipton.

Football

[edit]

Exeter Cityis Exeter's only Professional Association football club. Currently members ofLeague One, they have played their home games atSt James Parksince their formation in 1904. The club were founder members of theFootball League'sThird Division(south) in 1920, but have never progressed higher than the third tier of the English football league system, and in 2003 were relegated to theConference.

Other sports

[edit]

Exeter Cricket Club administer three teams that play in the Devon Cricket League. The first of which plays in the Premier Division at first XI level and the next plays at second XI level. The club play their home games at County Ground where they have remained for over 180 years.

ExeterRowingClub competes both locally and nationally, and has a recorded history originating in the early 19th century.[162]The City of Exeter Rowing Regatta is run annually in July, and is the eldest and largest regatta in the South West, with racing first recorded on the river in the 1860s.[163]

Exeter'sspeedwayteam,Exeter Falcons, was established in 1929 and were located at the County Ground until its permanent closure in 2005. The team was revived in 2015, but are currently based inPlymouth. Speedway was also staged briefly at tracks inAlphingtonand Peamore after the Second World War.

Culture

[edit]
Exeter Guildhall, which dates from 1470

Literature

[edit]
The Exeter Riddle Sculpture in Exeter High Street, created by artist Michael Fairfaxand installed in 2005 [164]

TheExeter Book, an anthology of Anglo Saxon poetry, is conserved in the vaults of Exeter Cathedral. The Exeter Book originates from the 10th century and is one of four manuscripts that between them encompass all surviving poetry composed inOld English. Predominantly, the Book incorporates shorter poems, several religious pieces, and a series ofriddles, a handful of which are famouslylewd. A selection of the aforementioned riddles are inscribed on a highly polished steel obelisk situated in High Street, placed there on 30 March 2005.[165]

Another famous manuscript is theLiber Exoniensisor Exon Domesday, a composite land and tax register of 1086. The piece contains a variety of administrative materials concerning the counties of Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, Somerset and Wiltshire. This document is also conserved in Exeter Cathedral.

In 2019, the city became aUNESCOCity of Literature.[166]

Theatre

[edit]

Exeter has several theatres. TheNorthcott Theatreis situated in the Streatham campus of the University of Exeter and is one of relatively few provincial English theatres to maintain its ownrepertory company.[167]

Barnfield Theatre

TheBarnfield Theatrewas originally constructed as Barnfield Hall by Exeter Literary Society towards the end of the 19th century and converted to a theatre in 1972.[168]

The Cygnet Theatre in Friars Walk is the home of the Cygnet Training Theatre and is a member of theConference of Drama Schools.[169]

Additionally, more innovative and contemporary performances, theatrical productions and dance pieces are programmed theExeter Corn Exchangein Market Street.[170]

Music

[edit]

The largest orchestra based in Exeter is the EMG Symphony Orchestra.[171]

Chris Martin, lead singer of rock bandColdplay, was born in Exeter and grew up in aGrade II-listedGeorgian house in the nearby village ofWhitestone.[172]He was educated atExeter Cathedral Schoolduring his early teens.[173]Consequently, the band has frequently returned to Exeter to perform, including duringBBC Radio 1's Big Weekendin 2016, which was hosted at the nearbyPowderham Castle.[174]Coldplay also teased the track list to their eighth studio album,Everyday Life(2019), in theExpress & Echo, Exeter's local newspaper.[175]

Another major rock band,Muse, have ties to Exeter. The band's members were all born and raised in nearby Teignmouth, and some of the band's earliest performances were at Exeter's 220-capacity Cavern Club in the early 1990s. They have since performed 33 times at the venue, most recently in 2022, when they débuted new material from their upcoming ninth studio album,Will of the People(2022).[176]

The Cavern Club on Queen Street has become one of Exeter's primary live music venues since its opening in 1991, hosting artists includingColdplay,Muse,Biffy Clyro,George Ezra,The 1975,BastilleandKaiser Chiefs.[177]It remains a popular venue for local artists, as well as one of the city's main student nightclubs.

Thom Yorke, lead singer of rock band Radiohead, attended theUniversity of Exeterin the early 1990s and helped to set up the Cavern Club.[178]He also played multiple gigs on the university campus with techno band Flickernoise, and regularly DJed at the Lemon Grove, a student nightclub on theStreatham Campus, where he is rumoured to have written the lyrics to Radiohead's first hit single "Creep".[179]

The University's Great Hall has emerged as a popular venue for live concerts in recent years, including English pop bandBlossomsin 2022[180]and English internet personality and musician,KSIin 2022.[181]Westpoint Arena, on the city's eastern outskirts near Exeter Airport, has also hosted a handful of major artists, such asThe 1975andLewis Capaldiin 2023.[182]

Museums and galleries

[edit]
  • TheRoyal Albert Memorial Museumin Queen Street is Exeter's predominant museum. The museum maintains its own collections of regional, national and international importance. Recently, the museum underwent an extensive refurbishment. It reopened on 14 December 2011, and was subsequently awarded the National Art Fund Prize – UK Museum of the Year 2012.[183]The Museum also runs St Nicholas Priory in Mint Lane, near Fore Street.
  • Additionally, the University of Exeter has an extensive fine art collection and an assortment of exhibition spaces across its Streatham campus. Showing a vibrant programme of exhibitions, performances, films and visual arts. The sculpture collection contains works by artists including Barbara Hepworth, Peter Thursby, Geoffrey Clark and Elaine M. Goodwin. It can be located using the Sculpture Trail.
  • Exeter Phoenix is one of South West England's leading contemporary arts venues. The venue occupies the former university site in Gandy Street and programmes international, national and outstanding regional artists.
  • Until its closure in 2017,Spacex (art gallery), was a contemporary arts organisation, that programmed exhibitions of contemporary art and promoted artist-led projects, events and research.

Newspapers

[edit]

Radio

[edit]

BBC Radio Devonbroadcasts to Exeter locally on FM (95.8) and AM (990 AM/MW), although the majority of programming originates in Plymouth. In the evenings, BBC Radio Devon joins the South West Regional service.Heart WestformerlyGemini FMandDevonAir, broadcasts on 97.0 FM, withEast DevonandTorbayutilising their own frequencies. Both Heart West and BBC Radio Devon broadcast from the St Thomas transmitter. AM radio is broadcast from Pearce's Hill located at J31 of the M5.

Other radio stations includeRadio Exe, an easy listening station broadcasting on 107.3 FM, Phonic.FM which provides a "no adverts no playlist" alternative on 106.8 FM or online at www.phonic.fm, VI, a station broadcasting from the West of England School and College on 1386 AM/MW.

Additionally, Exeter University has a well established student station,Xpression FM, which broadcasts on 87.7 FM using two low-powered transmitters, although it can be heard over much of the north of the city.

The localcommercial radiostation isRadio Exe. The localcommunity radiostation isPhonic FM.

Television

[edit]

BothBBC SpotlightandITV West Countryprovide Exeter with regional news outputs. BBC Spotlight is broadcast from Plymouth and ITV West Country is broadcast from Bristol, although both services do have newsrooms in Exeter. The St Thomas andStockland Hill transmitting stationboth provide the city's coverage with both transmitters having completed thedigital switchover.

Twin towns

[edit]
Piazza Terracina, Exeter, named after Terracina, Italy

Exeter istwinnedwithRennesin France,[184]Bad Homburgin Germany, andTerracinain Italy.[185]Exeter City Council suspended its twinship withYaroslavlin Russia in 2022.[186]

Freedom of the City

[edit]

The following people and military units have received theFreedom of the Cityof Exeter.

Individuals

[edit]

Military units

[edit]

[194][195]

Notable people

[edit]
SeeList of people from ExeterandCategory:People from Exeter

See also

[edit]

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[edit]
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  191. ^"Former Council chief executive awarded freedom of the City of Exeter".Exeter City Council. Retrieved20 July2022.
  192. ^"Coldstream Guards get freedom of Devon city, Exeter".BBC News. 6 July 2011.Archivedfrom the original on 25 September 2015.
  193. ^"City Council to bestow the Freedom of the City on RAF Brize Norton".The Exeter Daily. 15 October 2013. Retrieved9 December2020.
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Sources and further reading

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  • Gray, Todd (2000).Exeter: The Traveller's Tales. Exeter: The Mint Press.ISBN1-903356-00-8.
  • Higham, Robert (2008).Making Anglo-Saxon Devon. Exeter: The Mint Press.ISBN978-1-903356-57-9.
  • Hoskins, W. G.(2004).Two Thousand Years in Exeter(Revised and updated ed.). Chichester: Phillimore. p. 23.ISBN1-86077-303-6.
  • Neville, Julia (2010).Exeter and the Trams 1882–1931. Exeter Civic Society.ISBN978-0-9544343-1-1.
  • Sellman, R.R. (1985).Aspects of Devon History(New ed.). Exeter: Devon Books.ISBN0-86114-756-1.
  • Sharp, Thomas(1946).Exeter Phoenix: A Plan for Rebuilding. London: The Architectural Press.
  • Stoyle, Mark(2003).Circled With Stone: Exeter's City Walls, 1485–1660. Exeter: University of Exeter Press.ISBN978-0-85989-727-3.
  • Stoyle, Mark (1996).From Deliverance to Destruction: Rebellion and Civil War in an English City. Exeter: University of Exeter Press.ISBN978-0-85989-478-4.
  • Stoyle, Mark (2014).Water in the City: The Aqueducts and Underground Passages of Exeter. Exeter: University of Exeter Press.ISBN978-0-85989-877-5.
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