Falmer

Falmer
Church of St. Laurence
Falmer Location within East Sussex
Area	17.0 km2(6.6 sq mi)[1]
Population	284 (Parish-2011)[2]
•Density	43/sq mi (17/km2)
OS grid reference	TQ347105
•London	43 miles (69 km)N
District	Lewes
Shire county	East Sussex
Region	South East
Country	England
Sovereign state	United Kingdom
Post town	BRIGHTON
Postcode district	BN1
Dialling code	01273
Police	Sussex
Fire	East Sussex
Ambulance	South East Coast
UK Parliament	Lewes
List of places UK England East Sussex 50°53′N0°05′W / 50.88°N 0.09°W /50.88; -0.09

Falmeris a small village andcivil parishin theLewes DistrictofEast Sussex, England, lying betweenBrightonandLewes, approximately five miles (8 km) north-east of the former. It is also the site ofBrighton & Hove Albion'sFalmer Stadium.

Falmer village is divided by theA27 road. North of thedual carriagewayare a few houses and a pub, with a footbridge linking to the southern part of the village, where a large pond is encircled by cottages and the parish church, dedicated to St. Laurence. The two halves of the village are also linked by a road bridge just outside this circle of houses. The village pond is home to a population of ducks and geese, and is very likely to account for the name of the village. The village is recorded in the Domesday Book as 'Falemere' which is likely to be Saxon for "fallow mere" and mean a dark pool.^[3]

The campuses of theUniversity of Sussex, theUniversity of Brighton,^[4][5]andThe Keep, are all nearby.^[6]

Before theNorman conquest of England, the manor of Falmer was held byWilton Abbey.^[7]After the conquest most of it appears to have been given toGundred, wife ofWilliam de Warenne, 1st Earl of Surrey.^[7]In the 11th century the village name was variously spelled Falemela, Falemere or Felesmere.^[7]There is 13th century thatched barn, hidden from view behind the church, which was used by the monks ofLewes Prioryfor storing corn.

Edward IIvisited Falmer in 1324.^[7]Charles Igranted the manor to Edward Ditchfield in 1628 or 1629 and he sold it toWilliam Craven. At this time its manor extended over 3,060 acres (1,240 ha). The Craven's lost it because of their support of the King during theEnglish Civil War.^[7]

Due to the proximity of Falmer to the city ofBrighton and Hove, the parish has been substantially affected by the twentieth-century development of its large neighbour. Since the 1960s it has been home to theUniversity of Sussexcampus, and in the 1990s, the former Brighton Polytechnic Falmer campus became a principal base of theUniversity of Brighton. The village lends its name to the University of Sussex's alumni magazine.

The Falmer parish when viewed from above has the shape of theAfrican continent(see link to the parish map in the External links section below). However, the parish, like the village, has been divided by the fast A27, breaking the cohesiveness. On both sides of the road, the contours of the Downland are impressive to behold and, for the most part, even the noise of the road is contained within the A27 valley. The landscape has many visible layers of history. In the slanting light of late afternoon prehistoric and medievallynchetsshow up on the slopes of High Park, St Mary's Farm and Green Broom.

Sadly despite its long history and its beauty, only a few fragments of ancient Down pasture survive. The minutes of the old Brighton Council Farmlands Committee show that time after time they consented to the ploughing and ultimate wasting of the ancient landscape. The chalk grasslands that theNational Trustdescribe as Europe's tropical rainforests, and which are known to support up-to 40 species of flowering plants in one square metre,^[8]have largely been destroyed since thesecond world warby the modern agricultural methods.^[9]

TheSouth Downs Waypasses through the parish from the south east to the north west and crosses the A27 at Housedean Farm. Falmer parish sits betweenBrighton and Hoveto its west,St Ann Withoutparish (and thenLewes) to its east,Kingstonparish to its south and the long thin parishes running down the scarp slopes to its north, which includeDitchling,Westmeston,Streat,Plumpton,East Chiltington,St John Without, andHamseyfrom northwest to northeast.

To the south of the A27 is the south half of the village, which includes the church and the large village pond. The Falmer Road travels south toWoodingdeanand to the sea atRottingdean. The downland to the east of the road is part of Falmer parish. To the west are theFalmer Stadiumand theUniversity of Brightonwhich is inCity of Brighton and Hove.

Falmer church is dedicated to St. Laurence. The church was built in 1649. It consists of a west tower, a nave and chancel with a vestry to its north. It has a gallery and organ loft at the west end of the nave. It is particularly special because of the pond just outside it.^[10]

Perhaps what is most special about this village is its large gravel pond, which is a focal point of the village from where the village and parish got its name. Many people come fromBrightonandLewesto enjoy the pond and the green beside it, to picnic here and watch the ducks.

Behind the church is a manorial thatched barn of fourteen embayments which dates back to the 13th century. It is one of the largest medieval barns in Sussex and was used by the monks ofLewes Priory, who owned the manor, for threshing and storing corn. Falmer barn is a grade II* listed building.^[11]

In 2006, the barn, other vernacular farm buildings, and the farmhouse were sold byBrighton and Hove City Councilto the tenant farmer, who "promptly sold them on to a property developer."^[9]

By A27, east of the Falmer village, lies a clump of trees called the Cranedean Plantation (TQ 363 087). The name ‘Cranedean’ is a corruption of ‘Crane Down’ althoughcranesare wetland birds and would not be seen on these hills.^[12]It has been suggested that the name relates tobustard. ‘Bustard’ is an old French name, whereas ‘crane’ is a Saxon name, so it has been speculated that shepherds and ploughmen may have used the latter term in medieval times. The bustard is likely to have lived in the area.^[9]It has some oldbeeches, particularly at its north end, though the wood is strewn with tumbled hulks from the1987 gales.

New Barn valley (TQ 369 087) is east of the Cranedean Plantation and west of the Newmarket garage and cottages. The spur behind shelters the valley from the noisy A27 corridor so it is still peaceful. New Barn was built in 1845. It has two yards and a shepherd's room, complete with blackened fireplace, so the shepherd could attend the sheep round-the-clock during lambing.

There are several tumps that look like possible barrows at the top of the slope (TQ 371 085) south of the barn, next to theSouth Downs Way. The bank behind the barn has the flowers and insects of old Down pasture.^[9]

Half a mile south east of Falmer village are the scrubby pastures of Loose Bottom (TQ 362 080), part ancient and part restored to permanent pasture since 1987. Most of these erstwhile heathy Down pastures were bulldozed for corn after 1948, but the slopes in Loose Bottom were saved by their steepness.^[9]The name 'Loose' is derived from a Saxon word for a livestock enclosure (‘hlose’, in Saxon) (TQ 365 080), and refers to two ancientearthworkbanks that run in the Bottom (bothscheduled monuments). Both were probably Saxon cattle enclosures.^[13]One runs alongside the Falmer Road before dropping into the head of the valley. There are scattered clumps ofburnet rosealong large sections of the earthwork banks of both enclosures.

The fragments of surviving Down pasture have now been fenced back into a restored pasture block and the historical chalk grassland flowers are returning. There is nowcowslip, wild orchid,devil's-bit,betony,rampionandchalk milkwort. There areadonis bluebutterflies andemperor mothbenefiting from the pasture's restoration.

The Newmarket Plantation (TQ 367 080) lies on the eastern edge of Loose Bottom and the parish and west of theSouth Downs Way. It is a small deciduous woodland of 2.20 hectares (5.4 acres) withbeech,ashand sycamore and new plantings. There are mown paths circle its interior since the storms of 1987 and is a place of big upturned rootplates, which is home to manywrenandrobin.

To the north of the A27 is the north half of the village, which is like a quadrant around a small grazed field. The pub is one corner of the quadrant. To the west, just outside of the parish, is theUniversity of Sussex. To the north, north west and north east is special downland, with much history.

In Falmer village, at the T-junction between Mill Road and Ridge Road isPark Wall Farm. Running north from Falmer village, half way along Ridge Road and west of Balmer Farm, is the ruins ofRidge Farm(TQ 350 099). Now a good place for birdlife, such asyellowhammer, it was the start of the route of the biggest of the mass trespasses that marked the Sussex campaign for theright to roamin 1998–9. Carry on north down Ridge Road and at the end isSt Mary's Farm.

Housedean Farm(TQ 369 092) is east along the A27. It manages part of Balmer Down, was one of the last on these Downs to use an ox team for tillage, only giving up in 1914.Balmer Farm(TQ 358 099) lies on the site of the Saxon hamlet of Bergemere. Its name comes from the Saxon "the pool by the burh".^[3]It was sufficiently important at Domesday to have two slaves, a manorial church, swine pastures in the Weald atHorsted Keynesand Birchgrove, and brookland meadow south of Lewes still called ‘Bormer Brook’. The church has long gone but you can still trace the outlines of the hamlet green under the mess of modern farm clutter. Bigblackthornhedges mark the bounds of the medieval open fields of the hamlet, which drop away southwards from the farmstead (TQ 357 096). They went under the evocative names of Lanthorne Laine, Church Laine and Barren Laine.^[9]

Moon's Plantation (TQ 348 103) is planted woodland of 6.46 hectares (16.0 acres). It is mainly beech and at the southern end are in uniformed lines.

Moon's Corner slope (TQ 348 100), known locally as Sunny Bank, is a little slope that lies north east ofSussex Universityand west of Ridge Road. It is flowery meadow withorange tip butterfliesin the small woodland glades in the spring and a swathe ofdevil's bit scabiousin late summer. The bank is shadowy until midday when it becomes alive with insects and butterflies, includingbrimstone,brown argus,marbled white,smallandcommon blueandclouded yellow. In autumn many migrants stop off in the meadow andcommon redstartsandspotted flycatchersare regularly seen on a stop over before their flight over theEnglish Channel.

A short walk past Ridge Farm ruins is Waterpit Hill (TQ 352 105). The south facing slope is intensively farmed, although in the field there is the song ofskylarksand along the path hedges there are nestingyellowhammer.David Bangs, a Sussex field naturalists, says, "The north-facing slope of Waterpit Hill is one of the most attractive old Down pasture slopes on the Brighton Downs plateau". Given its richness as pristine Downland character, it was a good candidate to become Access land after theright to roamact in 2000. There is little scrub, except at its eastern end, and a lot of colour includingcowslips,orchids,harebell,yellow rattle,devil's bit,wild carrotand picnicker'sthistle. The northerly aspect bringsNeckera crispamoss and the scarce scree Snail,Abida secale, in places.^[9]

On Balmer Down are twoscheduled monuments, Buckland Hole and Balmer Huff. The twoIron Ageand Romano-British villages lay opposite one another. One village was on the spur of the Huff and the other was across Buckland Hole on the ridge where theSouth Downs Waynow runs. At the head of Buckland Hole lay their cemetery, a circular platform of flints and soil some 60 yards (55 m) across. Before it was ploughed out, one could make out a banked roadway, a strange enclosure that has been called their circus or moot, and many pits and platforms that used to be found in their field scape,^[14]The cemetery yielded up more than twentyfunerary urnswhen it was excavated in 1849. Still now, when one looks down from the Balmer Huff into Buckland Hole one sees a whole valley filled with a pattern of rectangular banks, often topped with gorse or thorn. These are the fossilized fields of the villages. The lineaments are signs of a farmed landscape from two thousand years ago and more and are comparable to the tiny fields in the west ofCornwallorIreland. Unfortunately, before the area was scheduled, it was intensively farmed and much of the historical evidence has been destroyed.

Also special in areas like this is archaic vegetation, but here, even in the steeper parts of the valley that were not ploughed, modernagribusinesssprays have meant the Down pasture vegetation has been lost and now only the occasional steeplynchetretains a smidgeon of that old flora. Nevertheless, there are still great views of vale of theLewes Brooks,Kingston Hilland a sliver ofSeaford Headcliffs. There are still a scatter ofsarsendebris, fossils, yellowed flints that are characteristic of hilltop clay-with-flint, as well as Romano-British pottery to be found in the area and cornfield flowers growing amongst the stones, includingcommon field speedwell,green field speedwell,scarlet pimpernel,knotgrass,field madderandcommon orache.^[9]

Along the downland path north east of Falmer, past Waterpit Hill, north of Balmer Farm and southeast ofBlackcapis Moustone (TQ 363 117). It is a slope west of the footpath and was an independent farm when theDomesday bookwas written, but is now part of Balmer Farm. To the south was the sarsen stone that gave it its name (TQ 361 110) It is now a lonely place ofRoe Deer,HareandKestrel. The slope's turf is more acidic than Waterpit, with moretormentiland wild strawberry, and most of the old Down pasture herbs are there such asspring sedge,cowslip,rockrose,wild basil,hairy violetanddevil's bit scabious.^[9]

The Four Lord's Burgh (TQ 365 116) is at the point where theSouth Down Wayturns southeasterly. The area is so named because this point was the point where four manorial boundaries came together and each manor had a ‘lord’. The manorial boundaries are now parishes and include Falmer,St John Without,East ChiltingtonandPlumpton. The boundaries were often aligned on prehistoric features and in the past there were about five round barrows here. Only the two barrows over the fence on the western side of the north–south track still exist as slight tumps, while the rest have been ploughed out.

Due west of Four Lord's Burgh lies a triangle of wood pasture (TQ 362 117) with the pleasing character of a park, now grazed by Sussex cattle. It lies over the boneyLynchetsof the field system of theIron AgeandBronze Agepeople that farmed this landscape. In August it is rich downland meadow flowers includingharebells,rockrose,red clover,eggs and bacon, andscabious. There is much Bracken on the western side, and shady sycamore and oak and occasional gorse.^[9]

The north west of the parish is to the west of St Mary's Farm. These areas are north of theUniversity of SussexandStanmer Parkand used for extensively by walkers and mountain bikers. Millbank Wood, Highpark Wood, Green Broom, Flint Heap and Granny's Belt are all woodlands in the area.

North west of St Mary's Farm, and east ofMillbank WoodandHighpark Wood, isShambledean Bottom,Bow Hilland Stanmer Down. The whole of Stanmer Down (TQ 34 11) used to be covered with prehistoric field systems, and on the top of Bow Hill there may have been as many as nine barrows in two clusters. It survived unploughed until the second world war, but it was left derelict and large areas of it turned to scrub. Since then it has been cleared and cultivated except for islands of scrub kept for pheasant cover. Now the visible signs of the ancient peoples have gone, except when the shadows are long and sharp.^[9]

The steep slopes of the bridlepath (TQ 342 116), west of Bow Hill, have kept the chalk grassland meadows through cattle grazing and mowing. There is a scatter of thorn, gorse, wild strawberries,harebellsandcowslipsthat help support a healthy butterfly population which includessmall copper,small heathandcommon blue. At its northern end, over the fence-line, there is a tiny fragment of Down pasture on the downslope edge of the thicket (TQ 344 120). It has survived in isolation, surrounded by arable, for as much as 150 years, perhaps by rabbit grazing.^[9]

At the bottom of Stanmer Down, Moon's Bottom (TQ 340 106) was intensively farmed, but has been transformed from its derelict state by good scrub control and cattle grazing. It has a cool and mossy slope lying under the shade ofMillbank Wood (TQ 338 105) to the southwest. There arecowslipsin spring and in late summer it has a sky-blue dusting ofsmall scabious.Some parts of it have a slightly acidic soil chemistry, withtormentil,sweet vernal-grassandfield wood-rush. On the flat ground above the eastern end of this slope is a scrub-covered round barrow (TQ 343 106).^[15]

Green Broom and Flint Heap (TQ 330 110) have large, old beeches and fallen giants, but only Green Broom is used extensively as mountain bike track and has some large jumps for those brave enough. The fallen trees have great fungal assemblages. The very rare lion's mane fungus (Hericiumerineus) has been found in at least two places as well as dog stinkhorn (Mutinus caninus), bird's nest fungus (Cyathus striatus), yellow stainer (Agaricus xanthodermus), Earth stars (Geastrum triplex), lots of turkey tail (Trametes versicolor), and many others. If one is lucky (or unlucky depending on your disposition) one might even smell the distinctive aroma of the ordinary stinkhorn,Phallus impudicus,^[9]

Near to Granny's Belt (TQ 334 105) there are reports that asarsenstone circleexisted till the 19th century. Although this may not be an authenticstone circle, there must still be many sarsens in situ, perhaps like the one exposed by excavations at Rocky Clump.

Rocky Clump (TQ 328 101), east of Upper Lodge Wood, was a lateIron Age/Romano-Britishsite. There is a hugesarsenstone in the trees as well as evidence for a Roman grain storage building and pit almost 2 metres deep.^[16]After the Romans left, it is thought to have been used as a pagan Saxon temple known as ‘Paeccel's Weoh’.^[17]‘Weoh’ is Saxon for ‘sacred place’, or even ‘temple’. The name was corrupted to Patchway, which became the modern name until recently for the whole Ditchling Road ridge between Upper Lodge Wood and Hollingbury Hill. The area was named in the Saxon charter of 765 AD and the parish boundary is aligned through it.^[3]

At a local level Falmer is governed by Falmer Parish Council. Its responsibilities include footpaths, street lighting, playgrounds and minor planning applications. The parish council has five seats.^[18]

The next level of government is the district council. The parish of Falmer lies within theKingstonward ofLewes District Council, which returns a single seat to the council. The election on 7 May 2015 elected a Liberal Democrat.^[19]

East Sussex County Council is the next tier of government, for which Falmer is within the Newhaven and Ouse Valley West division, with responsibility for Education, Libraries, Social Services, Civil Registration, Trading Standards and Transport. Elections for the County Council are held every four years. TheLiberal DemocratCarla Butler was elected in the 2013 election.

The UK Parliament constituency for Falmer isLewes. TheConservativeMaria Caulfield, a local nurse, was elected in 2015 defeating the incumbent Liberal DemocratNorman Bakerwho was the constituency MP from 1997.

Prior toBrexitin 2020, the village was part of theSouth East Englandconstituency in theEuropean Parliament.

Lewes Priory Cricket Clubplay some home games in Falmer and have Sussex and Brighton universities students and staff as members.

To the west of the parish is the site ofFalmer Stadium, home ofBrighton & Hove Albion F.C.Despite its name and proximity to Falmer, it is actually inside theCity of Brighton and Hoveboundary. After a lengthy process including apublic enquiry, it was approved by theOffice of the Deputy Prime Ministerin 2005, butLewes District Councilsubsequently mounted a legal challenge and overturned the decision on a technicality. The stadium was reapproved by Secretary of StateHazel Blearson 24 July 2007. The 30,500-seater stadium opened in July 2011.

Falmer is served byFalmer railway stationwhich lies on theEast Coastway line.

• Parish layout in MagicMap